L.A.’s Kaiseki Restaurant’s Elegant Makeover

For over a dozen years, n/naka chef Niki Nakayama has been revered among L.A. restaurant mavens and the Hollywood crowd alike as a master of the kaiseki style of dining — the elaborate Japanese interpretation of a seasonal tasting menu. If you can snag a reservation, which isn’t always simple, it might be time for a return trip, since n/naka just unveiled a remodeled dining room that provides a quiet-luxury style backdrop for diners enjoying the 13-course, nearly four-hour kaiseki experience.

Nakayama, who founded n/naka along with her sous-chef and wife Carole Iida-Nakayama, was featured on the first season of Netflix’s “Chef’s Table” in 2015 — the only female chef on that season — and the restaurant was awarded two Michelin stars in 2019. As their reputation grew, the unassuming spot on Overland Avenue in L.A.’s sleepy Palms neighborhood became one of the city’s most in-demand reservations.

Back in February, n/naka welcomed the cast of “Shōgun” for a show-stopping dinner that related the menu’s courses to characters from the FX series. It’s long been a favorite of stars, from Kiernan Shipka and Sophia Bush to Charlize Theron and Mindy Kaling.

But now, after 13 years of building their influence one exquisitely-plated course at a time, it was time for a refresh of the intimate room that previously provided quite an austere setting compared to the jewel-like presentations on the plate. Sure, the stately progression of kaiseki dining, unobtrusively knowledgable service and top-level ingredients were the point of the experience, not the décor, but now all the elements have been brought into harmony.

The remodeled space is all golden wood, soft lighting and curved lines, creating an intimate series of rooms that transport diners to a hushed Cali-Japanese inn deep in the countryside.

Minoru Oyamatsu of Tokyo’s Oyamatsu Design Studio and L.A. builder Beau Laughlin, founder of Framework, led the re-design, with architect Takashi Yanai as advisor. All new tables and chairs, hewn from black walnut and ergonomically designed to be comfortable for many courses, were made by Mario Correa and Zen Sekizawa of Mano Ya, while the warm woodwork was crafted by Studio:Rah.

Every detail subtly communicates the restaurant’s intention to meld “a Japanese heart with a California mind.” The unassuming door on Overland Avenue opens to a serene pathway paved with rocks collected in the California desert, with a large, upright stone making a strong statement as patrons enter the dining room. The center wall is covered in handmade washi paper, while a Japanese copper vase hangs in an arched opening.

Kaiseki cuisine is intimately dependent on the seasons, and Variety got a sneak peak at the room refresh with a taste of the current late-spring menu. The 13 courses include live scallops, vermilion rockfish, Ishiyaki lobster with uni and wild morel mushroom, a generous nigiri sushi selection and two delicate desserts. Shiizakana — spaghetti with abalone, truffle and pickled cod roe — is n/naka’s decadent, comforting signature dish that stays on the menu no matter what the season. Each course follows a set progression dictated by kaiseki tradition, and every dish is presented in a uniquely varied vessel, from blown glass to seashells, ceramics, stones and lacquerware. The wine and sake pairing features Japanese winemakers working in France, rare sakes and a Bordeaux blend perfectly selected for the delicate, buttery A5 Miyazaki Wagyu beef course.

“We want guests to feel utterly transported when they step into n/naka,” says Nakayama, “and forget about all of the stress, noise and discomfort of the outside world. When you attend a Japanese tea ceremony, the space is always minimal, quiet, serene — almost meditative. That environment helps you notice tiny details, appreciate beauty and be truly present in the moment, which is what we wish for our guests when they come to our restaurant.”

“Over the last 13 years, we’ve grown so much. We feel different now as chefs and as people, and we’ve focused so much on our craft in the kitchen. We’re proud of how our cooking and food have progressed, and we wanted our space to mirror that evolution,” says Iida-Nakayama.

With the new design and an impact that keeps on growing — including the opening of their izakaya-style n/soto in Mid-City two years ago — the pioneering chefs are bringing a deeply thoughtful approach to the city’s restaurant scene.